We Love Eyes P.M. Eye Butter Product Page
Includes Dr. Tanya Gill's personal notes and technical Q&A. For professional use only.
Concerns & Considerations
Since launching WLE in 2014, the most frequent requested product is for eye cream products to address the improvement of the appearance of the periocular area. An extensive list was compiled by asking patients at my optometry practice, Oakland Vision Center. Both men and women were polled - with women caring the most requests.
Here is a short list of requests for a potential eye cream product:
In addition to patient requests, I wanted a thoughtful product that would not harm the ocular surface, tear film and/or meibomian glands. A serious concern is the popularity of retinol in face and eye cream products. Retinol, although effective and the gold standard for anti-aging products - it absorbs from the face/periorbital epidermis into the elongated structure of the meibomiam gland and migrates throughout the duct system - causing cell death in meibomian gland epithelial cells. A serious concern for patients that have any degree of MGD (meibomian gland dysfunction) and/or DES (dry eye syndrome). An addition concern is made for the general population that may be at risk of developing MGD and/or DES from retinol use.
Concerns & Considerations for Stratum Corneum
The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin comprised of vertically stacked cells that resemble a brick wall. They are flat, thin squamous cells there are filled with proteins (the bricks) and surrounded by a matrix of lipid membranes (the mortar). There are also pockets of water that moisturize naturally from within and that serve as an integral component to healthy enzymatic function.
The stratum corneum is the protective barrier against incoming toxins and water loss. This is even more important with the eyelids where the epithelium is 4x thinner compared to the rest of the face. In addition, when it comes to sensitive skin, any imbalance in the the stratum corneum becomes even more of a concern. Challenges include chronic diseases, hormonal imbalance, medications (systemic or topical), illness, older age, etc.
Most important to these skin types are ingredients comprised of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Skin care products containing a balance of these lipid ingredients are particularly desired for skin barrier protection to improve appearance. Ingredients include plant based ceramides, plant based cholesterols, and botanical oils with high levels of essential fatty acids (see explanation of ingredients below).
1. Cholesteryl Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Stearate
Explanation of Ingredients
2. Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
3. Zea Mays Silk Extract
4. Phenyl t-Butylnitrone
A 3x complex of plant based cholesterol esters that are harvested and processed into liquid crystals. The prismatic effect of the liquid crystals create the color. The cholesterol works to provide unique emollient and protective benefits.
High linoleic and other essential fatty acid content (Omega-6,9). A natural ceramide known for its high levels of gamma oryzanol and tocotrienol antioxidants. Tocotrienol works much like Vitamin E; reduces tyrosinase activity; inhibits MMP-9
Possesses unsaturated lineolic essential fatty acid (Omega-6) and oleic essential fatty acid (Omega-9) . Provides emollient and moisturizing benefits. Antioxidant due to tocopherol (Vitamin E) content.
Spin trapping is a scientific technique to detect and identify free radicals through the use of electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. It is a highly active complex of oxygen and nitrogen. It is considered an intelligent antioxidant because instead of destroying free radicals, it works to trap and convert the free radical into useful oxygen for continued cell metabolism.
P.M. Eyelid Butter Directions for Professional Use
1. APPLY BEFORE BEDTIME
This product is intentionally formulated to be thick, nourishing and moisturizing. It does have a sticky, buttery feel and texture. Using this in the morning is not advisable as it leave a prismatic residue and the stickiness is not ideal before makeup application.
Use before bedtime is indicated as makeup application is not a concern and may allow this product to seal in moisture that may hydrates the eyelid area while asleep.
2. USE WITH CAUTION WITH EYELASH EXTENSIONS
The main ingredient (explained below) is a plant based cholesterol, hence, an oil based ingredient. Upper eyelid use is not recommended, but lower eyelid in a thin layer is possible if applied deliberately after day 10 of lash installation as the extensions have grown out further from the base of the lash.
When in question, the lash artist will know best. If, when and where to apply on the lower eyelid. This will be determined by the style of the eyelash extension and the proximity of the eyelash extension to the eyelid margin.
In between eyelash extension fills and resting periods in which no eyelash extensions are installed, this product is safe to use on both upper and lower eyelids.
Dispense 1 pump onto clean fingertips or 1/2 pump directly onto each lower eyelid area with applicator. Spread eye cream evenly onto lower eyelid including the "crow's feet" zone with clean fingertips. Applying to the upper eyelid area is an option and would require an additional dispense of 1 pump.
4. DURATION OF USE
Duration of use is a key component to successful results. Using this product sporadically or as needed will not yield results as the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative benefits (explained below) require continued use.
The epidermis takes 4 weeks to regenerate. Results can begin to show with continued use past 20 days. Longer for older skin. In our focus group (aged 20-60), results were felt as early as day 1, but in general, best and consistent results were reported after day 20. A best practice is to advise use for at least 21 nights for best results.
Technical Q & A
Answers provided for professional purposes only by Dr. Tanya Gill, OD
Dr Gill: The plant based cholesterol is harvested and processed into liquid crystals. The prismatic effect of crystals naturally add the color. Originally I wanted the color of this eye cream to be clear or white (more my aesthetic) but was unable to do so due to the nature of how crystals reflect light. I would say that the benefits of using a cholesterol complex for an eye cream certainly outweighed the sensational color.
A side note. When it came time to package the eye cream, I had organically used a white bottle. The focus group said it was surprising to have such a sparkly solution come out. A couple people said that it was an uncomfortable surprise - hence the clear bottle was chosen.
Q: Why does this product have a sparkly color? It seems overdone and all for show.
Q: How long does this product last?
Dr Gill: Depends on how much you use. With 1 pump, the 7.5ml bottle will last easily up to 30+ nights. My husband shares mine with me. We both use it nightly and we are making (my) bottle last 30 days.
If you apply the eye cream on upper and lower lids and use it overnight, the 7.5ml bottle will last approximately 21 nights. In this case, it's best to apply a thin layer. A little does go a long way.
Q: Why night time only?
Dr Gill: Frankly when testing this product – I loved using it at night. But using it in the morning was not reasonable. It leaves a sparkly residue and greasy film on the eyelids which makes eye makeup application impossible. However, used at night – I felt it was doing what I needed to be doing – feelings of hydrating, soothing, protecting . . . and all while asleep. It's a work horse of an eye cream and very different than other products I have used in the past because it's so extremely emollient.
Q: How long does this product last after I open it?
Dr Gill: The shelf life is 12 months after opening.
Q: What skin type is this best suited for?
Dr Gill: The is for any person that wants an anti-aging product for their eyelids. Minimum age is 16 years old.
Q: I used it for a week, so far no results. What gives?
Dr Gill: The epidermal layer of the skin takes 4 weeks to regenerate. Because of this fact, this product should be used for at least 3 weeks to begin to see changes in the appearance of the epidermis.
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